The 21st century MasterChef is the first cookery programme on television I’ve ever liked. It’s informal, competitive and doesn’t have Loyd Grossman sniffing near the saucepans.

However, I’m still not convinced by judge Gregg Wallace. Even though his narrative tag in each episode has been changed to “food writer and ingredients expert”, the man is still essentially a greengrocer. He supplies fruit and vegetables to the catering industry, as was pointed out by the narrator throughout the last series. He is, at face value at least, only different to my local fruiterer in terms of the scale at which he flogs his wares.

How does this make him qualified as to whether a chicken breast cooked in mustard and peppercorns is any good or not? I genuinely don’t get it.