When Gordon Ramsay was promoting the arrival of The F Word on Channel 4, he was intimating the show would feature an X Factor-style search for new talent, regular reports from Jane Moore and an eye-opening expose of the food industry.

Alas, the series itself seems to have none of this (although Ms Moore did show up in episode for a “spontaneous” chat about women in the kitchen – think: those awful Sunday Times ads), featuring instead Ramsay schmuttering up to soap stars and Giles Coren booking a regular table for one.

Does the world really need a food magazine programme though? Anyone got Chris Kelly’s number …?